Why are some jackets left unlined? How do I line my jacket and figure the yardage for lining?
Our merchandisers look at the ready-to-wear market for the most popular and up-to-the-minute fashions for our designers to translate into patterns. We also purchase garments from established designers (like Calvin Klein and Ellen Tracy) with the rights to turn these garments into patterns for home sewers. If the jacket we buy from a designer is unlined, then we are bound by contract to follow the designer's original garment and make our pattern unlined. Of course, you can line your jacket even if our pattern doesn't call for lining. Below are some very basic instructions on how you can do this.
The best way to determine how much lining fabric to buy is to use the same yardage amount as the jacket. Using this method, you will actually be buying more lining fabric than you will need. For a more accurate yardage, you can do a rough layout with the pattern pieces you will using for the lining, as described below:
1 The jacket pattern pieces you will use for the lining are: Front, Back, Sleeves, and Front and Back Neck Facings. If the style has princess seams, be sure to include the Side Front and Side Back.
2 Prepare the pattern in the following manner.
» Pin the Front and Back over the corresponding Front and the Back Facing pieces (Figure A).
» Draw the following new cutting lines on your pattern pieces: On the Front pattern piece, draw a line 3.2cm (1-1/4") past the Front Facing edge, as shown,and another line across the bottom 1.5cm (5/8") below the hemline. On the Sleeves pattern piece, draw a line across the bottom, 1.5cm (5/8") below the hemline. On the Back pattern piece draw a line across the bottom, 1.5cm (5/8") below the hemline; another line 3.2cm (1-1/4") past the facing edge, and a third line 1.3cm (1/2") outside the center back line, from the top to the bottom edge. This new third line on the Back pattern piece will be a fold line (not a cutting line). (Figure B)
» Lay out the pattern pieces following the jacket layout. Remember that Back lining piece must be cut on a fold.
» Assemble the lining in the same manner as the jacket, then staystitch the lining neck and front edges on the eamline. Make a pleat in the center back by stitching (down at the top and up from the bottom) 1.3cm (1/2") away from the center back fold for about 5cm (2") and backstitch. Press along the length of the fold, then along the fold created by the stitching, creating an ease pleat. With right sides together, machine-sew the lining to the facings. With wrong sides together, loosely hand-sew the sleeve seam allowances of the lining and the jacket together with a double strand of thread. Matching the raw edges of the lining and hem, slipstitch the lining to the jacket hem and the sleeve hem, creating an ease pleat about 1.5cm (5/8") deep.